General Finishes Water Based Milk Paint is a premium interior/exterior mineral based paint named for its low-luster sheen, which mimics the look of old-world furniture paint. It is not a powdered, casein-based milk paint, but a premixed, durable, self-sealing version. This General Finishes Milk Paint has a premium self-sealing finish and does not require a topcoat. Do NOT use any type of clear topcoat over white or light General Finishes Milk Paint colors, as it may cause yellowing when used over wood substrates. If a higher sheen is desired, use GF White Poly or GF Brushable White Enamel instead.
Please click the below headers to reveal the instructional info for this product.
General Finishes Stain Blocker may be necessary in the following circumstances, especially when using WHITE OR LIGHT-COLORED PAINTS.
- Raw Wood Tannin Bleed-Through is unpredictable; yellowing can appear immediately or months later with seasonal temperature changes. Oak, pine, mahogany and douglas fir are particularly prone to bleed-through.
- Knots in Wood contain rosin (sap) and are dense, making paint adhesion a challenge. Pine knots are especially difficult to cover with white or light paints. If you decide to paint over them, apply 3 coats of Stain Blocker over the areas with knots first; however, we cannot guarantee against rosin bleed-through. You are better off using a dark paint on pine.
- Existing Finish Bleed-Through may be caused previous stains or aniline dyes, surface contamination, and incompatibility between brands.
- Dark Paint Colors Over Existing Surfaces: To improve coverage when applying darker colors such as Coastal Blue, Dark Chocolate, or Queenstown Gray, prime with a coat of Lamp Black.
- Non-Wood Surfaces may be able to take paint if primed first. Primer may improve adhesion over laminate and prevent bleed-through from MDF. Metal requires a primer made specifically for metal.
NOTE: Do not tint or use Stain Blocker on projects that will be stored outdoors.
Priming Non-Wood Surfaces for Paint
Always test for adhesion on a hidden area of your project before getting started.
Metal: General Finishes Milk Paint is engineered for wood surfaces, but may adhere to metal, such as aluminum or steel, if a metal primer is applied first.
- Clean surface well.
- Apply primer.
- Dry 48-72 hours before painting.
Laminate: Milk Paint MAY adhere to laminate with a bonding primer; however, we cannot guarantee it. You may increase your chances of success by abrading the surface.
- Prep: Deep clean, dry thoroughly, sand with 150- then 180-grit sandpaper and wipe off dust.
- Prime: Apply bonding primer, dry 12+ hours before painting.
MDF: Milk Paint can be applied directly to MDF, but the MDF may cast a brown color if not primed first. Two base coats of white-pigmented shellac-based stain-blocking primer, or Stain Blocker, may prevent bleed-through. Alternatively, one base coat of General Finishes Seagull Gray Milk Paint may block brown tone caused by MDF.
MDF is not as absorbent as natural wood. Let each coat of primer and paint dry at least 48 hours before re-coating.
Fiberglass: Milk Paint can be applied directly over fiberglass without primer. We do not recommend applying other General Finishes products over fiberglass. Gel Stain may adhere to fiberglass, but it is not an exterior rated product.
Disclaimer
Although Stain Blocker is engineered to prevent the most persistent bleed-through when two coats are applied, General Finishes cannot guarantee prevention of bleed-through or yellowing on every project. Unknown factors and assiduous bleed-through can impact results. Stain Blocker is the strongest option we are aware of at this time and has performed extremely well in our tests.
GF White Poly (spray only) or GF Brushable White Enamel instead. Darker colors can be top-coated if a higher sheen is desired.
General Finishes Milk Paint Application Steps
Substrate: Wood (See below for other substrates)
- Stir paint to reincorporate solids that have settled to the bottom of the can before and throughout the application process.
- Thin as desired with distilled water; start with 5%, adding up to 10% by volume.
- Increase open time, if needed, with up to 5% General Finishes Extender if allowed by local regulations. GF Extender will improve flow and leveling and increase open time, which is helpful in dry climates. California Residents: Adding more than 2% of GF Extender will make the products non-compliant per SCAQMD Regulations. GF assumes no liability for the improper use of these products.
- Apply as many coats as needed for desired coverage. 2-3 coats are standard but additional coats may be required when using colors with less “hide properties,” such as bright reds, greens, yellows and whites.
- Hand application: Using a synthetic bristle brush, foam brush, paint pad applicator or 3/8″ nap microfiber roller such as Whizz or AllPro brand, apply using smooth, even strokes.
- Spray application: Before spraying, strain paint through a medium-mesh filter. Spray wet films at 3-5-mil thickness. HVLP: 1.8mm-2.0mm spray tip, medium air cap. Verify tip sizes with your equipment supplier. See our general guide for spray tip sizes. Keep your gun at a 90° angle, 6-8″ from the surface. On large, flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6-8″ wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3″ wide to reduce overspray. Overlap each pass 25% to conceal lines. Wear full filter NIOSH/MSHA-approved respiratory & eye protection.
- Face frames on cabinets: Milk Paint can be applied successfully to cabinet face frames, edges or drawer fronts with a brush, pad or small cabinet-specific roller such as Whizz or AllPro brand.
- Dry 2+ hours between coats and before gf water-based topcoat in ideal conditions: 70°F/20°C; 50-70% humidity. Be sure to allow adequate dry time. You can tell if a water-based finish is dry if it forms a powder when lightly sanded with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad. If in doubt, wait longer. Rushing dry time can cause clouding/blush in topcoat due to moisture trapped between coats. Increase dry time if:
- Humidity is over 80%
- 3+ coats are applied
- Thick coats are applied
- Applying over an existing sealed finish
- Applying over products from other brands
- Layering General Finishes water- and oil-based products:
- Water over oil: Let oil-based products dry 72+hrs before applying water-based products
- Oil over water: Let water-based products dry 24+hrs before applying oil-based products
- To accelerate dry time in humid conditions, add General Finishes Accelerator and work in a space with good ventilation and air movement. If you decide to re-coat before the recommended time, test dryness.
- Finish sand between coats with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding sponge or 400-grit sandpaper to improve smoothness and adhesion. Do not use conventional steel wool.
- Remove dust with a vacuum, compressed air, an oil-free tack cloth or a water-dampened rag.
- Topcoat is not required but is recommended in certain situations. See “Step 4: Topcoat over Milk Paint” below.
Cure Time
Water-based finishes cure and harden for full use after 21 days in ideal conditions. Avoid placing heavy objects on surfaces that have not completely cured. Treat gently, and do not clean with commercial products during the curing period.
Notes on Color
- All white paints darken or yellow over time, but the change is more evident with bright whites, such as General Finishes Snow White Milk Paint.
- Some colors made in a clear base require additional coats for coverage due to their lower hide quality, e.g., reds, deep blues and yellows. Bright whites may require additional coats over dark existing finishes.
Warning: Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.
Substrates:
The above instructions are for application over wood surfaces only. Non-wood substrates require different application techniques and dry times.
With the proper application technique, Milk Paint can adhere well to:
- PVC
- Vinyl
- Fiberglass
- MDF
- Wood